Vendée sweater: full pattern

Vendee SweaterThis pattern first appeared in August, soon after our chilly French holiday. It was written rather quickly and needed some updating so here it is in full for you, with a link to the new pdf at the end of the page (or available from the pattern page on Ravelry)

***Please feel free to sell items made from this pattern, but do not sell the pattern itself***

I had chosen the yarn for making a blanket, inspired by Lucy’s Coast Ripple Blanket. However, our holiday destination was a little cooler than anticipated and I decided that the need for warm clothing was more urgent.

I have written this pattern in one size. It fits a 34”/35” bust generously. The method is however adaptable to other sizes and can be used with the yarn and hook of your choice. It requires no sewn seams and begins with the yoke, followed by the bodice; the sleeves are worked in at the end.

Yarn required:

Drops Paris Denim Blue (30) or Spray Blue (102) 2x50g

Dark Turquoise (10) 2x50g

Light Turquoise (02) 2x50g

Light Mint Green (21) 2x50g

Pistachio (39) 2x50g

Opal Green (11) 2x50g

5mm crochet hook

Yarn/tapestry needle

Four stitch markers, safety pins or pieces of contrasting yarn

 

NB: This technique for forming a sweater could be used with practically any yarn weight and hook, but the stitch counts would need to be altered accordingly.

UK terms used throughout.

YOH: yarn over hook

sl st: slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch you are joining into, YOH and draw through both loops on the hook.

dc: double crochet (US sc/ single crochet): insert hook into stitch, YOH, draw through stitch, YOH and draw through both loops on hook.

tr: treble (US dc/ double crochet): YOH, insert hook into stitch (or ring or space), YOH and draw through stitch; YOH and draw through two loops on hook, YOH and draw through remaining two loops

sttr: Starting treble (US starting double crochet): this replaces a ch3 at the start of a row of trebles and is explained very well here: http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/. It gives a neat result after a little practice.

(NB the tutorials are both in US terms, so the stitches are described as doubles rather than trebles)

For the colour changes, feel free to use your usual method. I have suggested using the new colour for the slip stitch when joining the previous round as I find it is neater for this project.

The initial chain will form the neckline and sits quite wide on the shoulders. If you wish to alter the size, start here. Make a chain of an even number of stitches to the length required, checking that it fits over the wearer’s head and drapes gently. The overall pattern shape will remain much the same but the number of stitches will vary according to how you begin.

Starting with Denim Blue (30) or Spray Blue (102):

Ch120, lay chain flat and join to first stitch with slip stitch to make a large ring/loop.

R1: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each ch (120tr) and join with sl st

R2: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr) and join with sl st

R3: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr) and join with sl st

R4: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr)

Using Dark Turquoise (10), join with sl st

R5: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr) and join with sl st

R6: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr) and join with sl st

R7: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr) and join with sl st

R8: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (120tr).

As the shoulder section grows, try it on. I found that the tighter initial chain gave some shaping without needing to work increases, but it will depend on your tension and your shape. It’s fine to start increasing earlier and switch the rows around if you wish to, though you may want to keep track of where you’ve made changes.

Using Light Turquoise (02), join with a sl st

The shaping starts in this section.

R9: Ch3 or sttr; tr in same stitch; then 1tr in each of next 6 stitches. *2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 6st* and repeat from * to * until the last but one stitch; the last group will be 2tr in the final stitch; join with sl st (138tr: 17 groups of [2tr in first stitch, tr in each of next 6], 1 group of [2tr in first stitch])

R10: ch3 or sttr and tr in same stitch; then 1tr in each of next 7 stitches. *2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 7st* and repeat from * to * until end of round (the last group will be 2tr, tr); join with sl st (156tr: 17 groups of [2tr in first st, tr in each of next 7]; 1 group of [2tr in first st, tr in next stitch])

R11: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr and join with sl st

R12: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr.

Using Light Mint Green (21), join with sl st.

R13: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr (156tr) and join with sl st

R14: ch3 or sttr and tr in same stitch; then 1tr in each of next 8 stitches. *2tr in next st, 1tr in each of next 8st* and repeat from *to * (the last group will be 2tr, tr, tr); join with sl st. (174tr: 17 groups of [2tr in first st, tr in each of next 8]; 1 group of [2tr in first st, tr in next 2 st])

At this point, measure out the width of the bodice and sleeves. I put the top section on my shoulders and ensuring that the join in the last round was at one underarm, pinching the underarms roughly where the sleeve width felt correct and marking these points on each side, I then laid the piece out flat, corrected for symmetry and marked the front and back bodice with stitch markers

The stitch counts are:

Bodice: 94 stitches (47 front, 47 back)

Sleeves: 40 stitches each.

Place the 1st stitch marker in the working stitch (the loop on the hook), then stitches 47, 87 and 128, working in the direction in which you crochemarking out sectionst, to indicate the start and end points of the front and back bodice. The shorter sections form the sleeves.

 

sleeve join 1join armhole 2

 

 

R15: Start the bodice here, continuing in Light Mint Green (21).

Working across the back:

Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr across body front (47tr, marker to marker).

Skip 40 stitches and work next tr where the 3rd stitch marker is placed, then a further 46tr across the back (47tr), up to and including the stitch where the 4th marker is placed. Skip 40 stitches and join with sl st to initial tr/ch3 to make the second armhole.

From here, you will work in rounds to complete the bodice.

R16: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. (94tr)

 

Using Pistachio (39), join with sl st.

R17: ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R18: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R19: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R20: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. (94tr)

 

Using Opal Green (11), join with sl st.

R21: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R22: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R23: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R24: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. (94tr)

 

Using Denim Blue (30) or Spray Blue (102), join with sl st.

R25: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R26: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R27: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st. (94tr)

R28: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. (94tr)

 

Using Dark Turquoise (10), join with sl st.

R29: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st.

R30: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st.

R31: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st.

R32: Ch3 or sttr; 1tr in each tr around whole of bodice section. Join with sl st and fasten off.

 

To make the sleeves:

S1: Join Light Mint Green (21) in to the far right hand stitch of one armhole:

ch3 and work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, then tr2tog twice – one in the stitch with a marker and one around the post of the adjacent stitch – to close the gap. Join to top of ch3 with a sl st.

tr2tog for armhole

S2: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole (42tr).

 

S3: Join with sl st in Pistachio (39). ch3 or sttr, and work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr).

S4: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr).

S5: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr).

S6: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole (42tr).

 

S7: Join with sl st in Opal Green (11). ch3 or sttr, and work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr).

S8: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr).

S9: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr).

S10: ch3 or sttr; work 1tr in each stitch around the armhole, closing round with sl st. (42tr). Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Repeat S1-S10 for second sleeve. Weave in all ends securely (I find with this yarn that tying the two yarn ends together at each join, splitting the tails into two or three sections and weaving those in gives a less bulky finish).

Optional: finish neck edge and/or sleeve and bodice hems with a plain dc edging in the colour of your choice.

I’d love to see the results of your work. Please feel free to share them on my Facebook page or to link your Ravelry projects to the pattern page.

pdf download from RavelryVendee sweater

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One thought on “Vendée sweater: full pattern

  1. Pingback: Creating a Cardigan | nelnanandnora

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