Simple shapes are, for me, the most satisifying means of making garments, as you will have seen in earlier projects. I bought this fabric a few weeks ago and was thinking about making some trousers or a play suit, but … Continue reading
Having enjoyed making the girls’ blankets during last Autumn and Winter – and after a few months’ rest from big projects – I thought that perhaps Mr T. and I should have our own for camping holidays and winter evenings. … Continue reading
Following on from the older girl’s mermaid tail that I wrote about a few weeks ago, I took up another commission, this time for a younger child. This one is also worked in James C. Brett Marble Chunky colourway MC4, … Continue reading
It seems so long since I last wrote anything. Each time I intended to, there seemed to be nothing to say and the longer I left it, the harder it became to make a start. May was a strange month, … Continue reading
Sometimes it feels good to have a straightforward project to work on. For me, top-down sweaters are a favourite as they are quick to make and easy to wear. This sweater is made in much the same way as the top that I made last year, but with no sleeves and no colour changes.
I have used approximately 185g of Sirdar Beachcomber (A DK cotton yarn, 140m/153yds per 50g) in the colourway ‘Catch the Sun’ (260) to make this version, which measures approx 86cm (34″) at the bust line and 50cm (20″) from the neckline to the hem. I have not given stitch counts for larger or smaller sizes as I have no budget for testing but am happy to help work out modifications if required. One option would be to use finer or thicker yarn and/or change hook size (I have used a 4mm hook here though my tension is quite loose).
You will also need four stitch markers (safety pins, paper clips or contrasting pieces of yarn can be used as alternatives)
UK terms used throughout.
YOH: yarn over hook
sl st: slip stitch: insert hook into the stitch you are joining into, YOH and draw through both loops on the hook.
dc: double crochet (US sc/ single crochet): insert hook into stitch, YOH, draw through stitch, YOH and draw through both loops on hook.
tr: treble (US dc/ double crochet): YOH, insert hook into stitch (or ring or space), YOH and draw through stitch; YOH and draw through two loops on hook, YOH and draw through remaining two loops
The ch3 at the start of each round counts as a treble (US dc)
PM: place marker
R1: ch3, tr in each, join with sl st to top of ch3 (119tr including ch3)
R2-5: ch3, tr in each, join with sl st to top of ch3
R6: ch3, tr in same st, tr in each of next 6 tr, *2tr in next, tr in each of next 6tr and repeat from * to end. Join with sl st to top of ch3.
R7: ch3, tr in same st, tr in each of next 7 tr, *2tr in next, tr in each of next 7tr and repeat from * to end. Join with sl st to top of ch3.
R8: ch3, tr in same st, tr in each of next 8 tr, *2tr in next, tr in each of next 8tr and repeat from * to end. Join with sl st to top of ch3.
R9-21: ch3, tr in each, join with sl st to top of ch3.
Place marker in 1st stitch of round; skip 50 stitches, PM in next stitch, skip 33 stitches, PM in next stitch, skip 50 stitches, PM in next stitch (there should then be 33 stitches between the fourth and first marker)
R22: ch3, tr in next st and each st up to and including the 2nd marker. Skip to 3rd marker: tr in this and each st up to the 4th marker. Join to top of ch3 with sl st.
R23-45: ch3, tr in next st and each st. Join to top of ch3 with sl st.
R46: ch1, dc in next st and each st around. Join to ch1 with sl st and fasten off. Weave in ends.
If you have any questions or feedback, please don’t hesitate to get in touch.
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