Broomstick lace has been one of my crochet loves for a couple of years now, though until recently I’d not progressed beyond rectangles and didn’t know how to work shaping. The first tutorial I used (after trying out some basics from Simply Crochet Magazine) is from Speckless, and I learned the shaping technique that is used here from Crochet Kitten. I have also written an introductory tutorial and scarf pattern.
This yarn caught my eye last year and so when there was an offer on Rowan yarns in a local craft store I bought some with the idea of making some shell stitch purses or bags. However, I’d also seen lots of embellished sweatshirts in shops and on Pinterest and wondered how I could do something a little out of the ordinary. Suddenly the long and drawn out thought processes led me to this idea and when contributions were being sought for an event in the Creative Crochet Crew group on Facebook to link in with National Crochet Month, this seemed perfect to share on my appointed day.
Tools and Materials (these can be altered to suit your needs, but this is what I have used):
20mm knitting needle
4.5mm crochet hook
1x50g ball Rowan Summerspun (Cotton: 50%, Wool: 50%); I have used the Greenwich and Bayswater colourways
Sweatshirt, (the examples here are from H&M), cardigan or sweater
Fabric scissors and air or water erasable fabric marker or tailor’s chalk (if cutting out fabric behind panel)
Coordinating sewing thread and suitable needle for hand sewing and/or sewing machine
UK Terms used throughout:
Key: dc – double crochet (US sc- single crochet)
working stitch: the stitch on your hook (not to be counted when you count your stitches)
working group: the group of loops with which you are working with at a given stage in the pattern
Special stitches: Locking Stitch – Yarn over hook, draw the yarn back through all the loops in the working group; yarn over hook again and pull through the loop on your hook (does not count as a dc/sc).
R1: Lengthen the working stitch (the one on your hook) and place it on the knitting needle. *Put the hook through the front loop only (i.e. the one nearest to you) of the next stitch, yarn over hook and pull through; place this loop on the knitting needle.* Repeat * to * 4 more times so that you have 6 loops on your needle. Slide the loops off the needle and onto your crochet hook. Yarn over hook, draw the yarn back through all the loops, yarn over hook again and pull through the loop on your hook. This is a locking stitch that will be worked once at the start of each row (not for every working group). Next, work 6 dc into the ring formed by the loops, as shown above.
R2: extend the working stitch and pick it up on the knitting needle. Working in the front loops only, pick up a loop and place onto the knitting needle (as above) from each of the next 5 stitches (6 loops on needle). Split the loops into two groups of three to enable the increases to be worked. Slide the right hand group of three loops onto your crochet hook and work a locking stitch. Work 6dc into this group. Pick up the next group of three loops from your needle and work 6dc into this group. (12dc) R3: extend the working stitch and pick it up on the knitting needle. Pick up the front loop only of the next stitch, place onto the knitting needle and repeat with each of the next ten stitches (12 loops on needle). Form three groups of 3, 6 (centre) and 3 loops. Slide the first group of three loops onto your crochet hook and work a locking stitch. Work 6dc into this group. Pick up the centre group of six loops from your needle and work 6dc into this group, then pick up the final three loops and work 6dc into this group. (18dc) Subsequent rows are worked in the same way as R3. The groups are split as follows (and the number of dc will be the row number multiplied by 6): R4: 3-6-6-3 (18loops, 24dc) R5: 3-6-6-6-3 (24 loops, 30dc) R6: 3-6-6-6-6-3 (30 loops, 36dc) R7: 3-6-6-6-6-6-3 (36 loops, 42dc)…. I finished at R15 (84 loops, 90dc) though you may wish to finish sooner or continue for longer, according to the size of panel and the yarn and tools that you are using Border: work 4dc into the last set of loops, then 4dc in each set down the left hand side until you reach the last one. Here, work 4dc around the leftmost 3 loops (leaving three free on the left hand side), one dc in each of the very first row, then 3dc in the rightmost 3 loops (leaving three free) and 4dc in each group working back up to the top. Join to the 1st dc of the top row with a slip stitch, fasten off and weave in ends. 1. Pin the panel to the back of your sweatshirt. Mark – through the outermost loops on the long edges – the cutting line with a marker or chalk. If you wish to cut out the fabric from behind the panel, follow the next step; otherwise, go to step 3 2. Remove the panel, draw a third line to join the other two, leaving sufficient seam allowance (1-15.cm or about 1/2″) cut along these lines as seen here.You may wish to neaten the edges with an overlock or zigzag stitch at this point. 3. Pin the panel in place again and hand or machine stitch it in place. If machine stitching, a narrow zigzag or other suitable stretch stitch, using a jersey (ballpoint) needle would help retain the stretch of the fabric. You are welcome to make use of this pattern to make items for personal, business or charitable purposes, but please do not sell the pattern itself. Credit for the design would be appreciated and I would love to see the results of your work. If you have questions or comments, please don’t hesitate to get in touch. pdf download via Ravelry in UK or US terms