V Stitch Beanie Pattern

v-stitch beanie

This hat design came about while I was thinking about crafting for Red Nose Day and the Big Comic Relief Crafternoon. I’ve not designed a hat for a while and did some searching to see if there was anything similar, and though there are some v-stitch hats around I didn’t find anything quite like this. Red Nose Day falls on March 13th so I wanted to find something suitable for little ones – especially those too small to wear a Red Nose – that would be cosy but not too warm and that could also be worn indoors. A lacy stitch and cotton yarn seemed perfect.

While in Ilkley last week, I called in at Eme, a treasure trove in a cute green hut, and picked up a couple of balls of cherry red cotton yarn and made a start on the first hat on Friday evening. It’s quite a quick make and very satisfying.

The hats I’ve made so far would fit a head circumference approximately 44-48 cm, so fits  approximately 12 months – 3 years. Using a bigger or smaller hook or different yarn is the easiest way to change the size, or you can add more or fewer rounds of increases.To add height, add some more rounds of v-stitches without increases.

In this size, each hat uses approximately 35g of yarn including the pompom. You could therefore just about get three (or two plus one without a pompom) from a single ball of this yarn!

P1010552The photo above is intended to give you some idea of gauge. My work measures 10cm across 6 v-stitches using a 3.5mm hook.

For a baby hat, I’d suggest increasing only up to round 3 and then continuing with 18 v-stitches for rounds 4-11 before working the ribbed band.

UK terms used throughout

yoh: yarn round hook

sl st: slip stitch: insert hook in stitch, yrh and draw through both loops on the hook.

dc: double crochet (US sc/ single crochet): insert hook into stitch, yrh, draw through stitch, yrh and draw through both loops on hook.

tr: treble (US dc/ double crochet): yrh, insert hook into stitch (or ring or space), yrh and draw through stitch; yrh and draw through two loops on hook, YOH and draw through remaining two loops

Special stitches:

v-st: v-stitch: (tr,ch1,tr) in same space (US dc,ch,dc). Unless otherwise specificied, you will work into the ch1-space of each of these in the subsequent rounds.

(ch1-sp: space made in v-stitch by the ch1 between the two trebles)

sttr: Starting treble: this replaces a ch3 at the start of a row of trebles and is explained very well here: http://www.mooglyblog.com/chainless-starting-double-crochet/. It gives a neat result after a little practice (NB the tutorial is in US terms, so the stitches are described as doubles rather than trebles).

Magic (or adjustable) ring: I find this tutorial from Annemarie’s Haakblog the most helpful; alternatively, ch4 and join with a sl st to make a ring.

Materials:

King Cole Cottonsoft DK in Cherry (719) (100% cotton, approx 229m/100g)

3.5mm crochet hook

yarn needle

scissors

pompom maker (I used a 5.5cm set from Prym)

Method:

Make a magic ring (see above) or ch4 and join with sl st

Magic Ring

R1: sttr, ch1 (or ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr into ring – this is the first v-stitch.

v stitch R1

(tr,ch1,tr) into ring 5 times; sl st to top of sttr or 3rd ch of ch4.

(6 v-stitches)

R2: sl st into ch1-space of next v-stitch. sttr, ch1 (or ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr into same ch1-space (first v-st), v-st into same ch1-sp from R1.

2 v-st into each of remaining 5 v-st sl st to top of sttr or 3rd ch of ch4 ; sl st to top of sttr or 3rd ch of ch4.

(12 v-stitches)

v stitch R2

R3: sl st into ch1-space of next v-st in R2. sttr, ch1 (or ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr into same ch1-sp (1st v-st)

2 v-st into next v-stitch, v-st in next v-st* and repeat * to * until one v-st remains from R2. 2 v-st in this last v-st; sl st to top of sttr or 3rd ch of ch4.

(18 v-stitches)

v stitch R3

R4:sl st into ch1-space of next v-st in R3. sttr, ch1, (or ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr into same ch1-sp ; v-st in same ch1-sp.

v-st in next 2 v-st *2 v-st into next v-stitch, v-st in next 2 v-st* and repeat * to * until end of round; sl st to top of sttr or 3rd ch of ch4.

v stitch R3

(24 v-stitches)

That marks the end of the increases for this hat. To make a larger one, the next round would need 6 sets of 5 stitches (1v-st,1v-st,2v-st,1 v-st,1-st repeated 6 times), then 6 sets of 6, and so on.

R5-R12: sl st into ch1-space of next v-st. sttr, ch1 (or ch4 (counts as tr, ch1), tr into same ch1-sp ; v-st in each v-st around; sl st to top of sttr or 3rd ch of ch4.

r5

R13: ch1, *dc in ch1-sp, dc in next 2 tr* and repeat * to * around hat to give a neat dc edge. Sl st to close (72dc).

r13

R14-17: ch1, then work a round of dc in back loops only (so instead of working into both loops of the stitch, work only into the one that is further from you, as below) around the hat; sl st to close (in both loops). This gives the horizontal rib effect.

blo

Break yarn and weave in ends.

Make a pompom in the same yarn; tie with a long piece of yarn or strong sewing thread (I tend to wrap mine twice round the circles, tying it each time) and sew on to the hat as securely as you can.

If you sell any of these for Comic Relief, you can make your donations via this website. Thanks!

download now from Ravelry

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s